It’s Ramadan here in Damascus, and food is being prepared all day. The fast until evening means that evening becomes a huge meal, and shops bake cream-filled sugary pastries and cafes set up special 6.40pm tables. As I finish my Arabic lessons, I walk down through the city, from the French Embassy area back to Bab Tooma, and about six thirty pm, restaurants become full of men waiting for the sunset. Their tables are all laid, full with glasses of juice and plates of chicken and rice and vegetables, but none of them are eating. Then, the call issues out from the mosques, and the day ends. At 7pm, you can walk through endless empty streets – almost everyone is at home (or in restaurants) eating.
All you can hear is the clicking of forks.
PS I think suitcasing.com is down for some reason – will be restoring it soon, hopefully.